First up, I’d say it depends on where you’re going and for how long. If its a short trip and you can get away with just a “hand luggage” size bag, you will be the envy of everyone you meet along the way and it will make your life so much easier. But lets assume you’ll be off for a while. And lets assume you’re packing for a variety of environmental conditions (hot, cold, wet, dry, etc).

The bag.
Get the smallest you can fit all your stuff in. Seriously. If you get a big bag, you will full it and then spend the whole trip lugging heaps around. Keep it small and then you can’t over pack. Try get one with a cover you can zip over the shoulder straps so it wont get mangled in the airport conveyer belts. And definitely try get a bag with as few external zippers as possible. If you can get a bag with a single zipper thats best – as every compartment you’ll have to keep locked (not just for theft prevention – also to prevent someone else slipping something into your bag for you to “carry over” a border or through a check point). Also a small day bag you can fit your warm top, a water bottle, your passport, camera, etc into.

The clothes.
I’m a guy, so these are for a guy. Chicks, you can probably figure out the gist of it. 4x normal short sleeve t-shirts. 1x long sleeve t-shirt. 1x pair of jeans. 1x pair of quick-dry long trousers. 2x “swimming” baggies (trunks you swim in – if you’re not spending much time on the coast then 1 pair is fine). 2x “dry” baggies (daytime, normal day-to-day trunks). 1x long sleeve fleece thermal top. 1x long sleeve windbreaker / rain jacket. 1x beanie. 1x flip-flops (Havaianas are cool). 1x closed shoes that are smart enough to get you into a bar/restaurant, but that are comfortable enough to do long distance walking/hiking. 1x long sleeve rashvest (lycra top – they are best for blocking the sun on the beach and wont wash off every time you jump in the water). A whole pile of underwear and socks. You can recycle the rest of your clothes for a couple days at a time if you’re careful but please don’t think of that with your underwear and socks! Finally a beanie (get one you can pull over your eyes which makes it double as a sleep mask).

Toiletries.
1x toothbrush. Start keeping an eye out for a new one when your’s is getting a bit long in the tooth – it might take a couple days to come across one which meets your standards. 1x toothpaste. 1x deodorant. 2x bars of soap. I actually had 4 as a bar of soap only lasts me about a week. 2-in-1 shampoo anti-dandruff shampoo. Why the anti-dandruff? Because it also kills fungal outbreaks on your skin. You will pick up one or two of those from all those lovely communal showers along the way.. 1x waxed dental floss (it doubles as incredibly strong thread for fixing things – ie if your bag tore, you could probably temporarily fix it with a strong needle and the floss). 1x SPF 20 sunscreen for day to day use. 1x SPF 45 or stronger sunscreen for your face. As a guy, I skipped the normal disposable razor and shaving cream and went for a small AA-battery powered beard shaver. You don’t need to lug heavy shaving cream/gel around and you can shave without water. Sure it won’t be as close as a bladed shave, but the stubble is better than getting infected hairs cause the water you’re trying to shave with is a bit dodgy. Wet wipes/baby wipes are worth their wait in gold – make sure you’ve got a pack or two in your bag. They’re your shower when there’s no water (or if its too cold to shower), and generally help cleaning up when you don’t have easy access to water. Try get the biodegradable types, but if they’re not available get something. Even if you don’t plan to use them, take condoms. Someone will ask you for some along the way, and if you do end up in a situation where you need them, you would like to know they’re ones you can trust. And never ever think of trying unprotected horizontal aerobics. The risks are just not worth it ever.

Medic Kit.
Plasters, headache tablets (both ibuprofen and aspirin), hay fever tablets (even if you don’t have hay fever, anti-histamines help with stings and insect bites. I was really glad for them when I got stung by a sting-ray on the beach the one day..!), anti-diarrhea tablets, plenty of rehydration sachets. This is your day-to-day medic kit. Also pack one of those “sterile surgery packs” you can get from good outdoor shops – the ones which have sterile sutures, scalpels, hyperdermic needles, swabs, gloves, etc so that if something happens to you and you need to be seen by a doctor/surgeon in a place where you can’t ensure the cleanliness, you can use the kit. Have it and you won’t need it, don’t find yourself in a 3rd world country half a days drive from the nearest town trying to stop yourself screaming as a doctor stitches you closed with a needle and some sewing thread..)

Sundries.
Big beach towel. Microfibre towel (not only do they dry you, they’re also amazing insulators. I’ve kept a tub of ice cream frozen for an hour and a half in 40 deg C temps while i made my way back to a hostel! Also excellent for keeping beers & cool drinks cold for sundowners on the beach). Sarong (has a million and one uses). A Leatherman – I use the Leatherman Juice as it is the only one which includes a cork screw for opening wine bottles. Also look on amazon or at your outdoor shop for a pocket knife sharpener, I have a smal ceramic one which works perfectly on the road. 2x decks of playing cards. UNO cards (you get awesome clear plastic ones, called UNO splash, off amazon). A tennis ball and/or a keepy-uppy (hackee-sack) ball. We had a tiny “fishing kit” – basically some hooks, sinkers and swivels in a small plastic container with a heap of fishing line wrapped around it. You can make a small hand-line fishing rig with it and catch your own dinner (which I’ve done!). A field kitchen. We had a rectangular plastic tub – the ones with a tab on each side of the lid to clip it closed. Inside a knife, fork and spoon for each person the kitchen is for. A small hiking salt-and-pepper set. A further small hiking salt-and-pepper set with mixed herbs and something spicy, like peri-peri flakes. A small water-tight container with some washing up liquid. A sponge. And if you’re a marmite eater – LOTS AND LOTS OF SQUEEZY MARMITES!!! Two months in you’ll be craving something savoury to spread on your bread & toast. You can thank me later (met a Tasmanian on the way once who had 12 tubes of Vegemite. Smart man. Take his lead). If you’re going to be anywhere along the coast, a good mask and snorkel (goggles and snorkel) if you’re one of those sort of people. 1x lonely planet or rough guide or equivalent guide book for the next area you will be heading to (get the most recently published one – when you get to the edge of the area your guide covers, you’ll probably find a book-swap where you can swap it out for a guide book covering the next area). Locks for all the zips on your backpack. Another big padlock. I had a snowboard cable lock and used it all over the place to lock several bags together or to lock a hand luggage bag onto something immoveable – its not going to stop a focussed thief, but it stops the opportunistic theft which is so commonplace. Finally, get a SILK (not cotton) sleeping bag liner. The silk is a very fine weave, meaning it stops nasties like fleas and bed bugs getting through to you, plus the silk provides some thermal insulation too – usually around an extra 5 def C, and it packs down to a minuscule size. They’re not cheap, but totally worth it for places where you’re not 100% sure of the cleanliness of your next nights bedding. A metal hipflask – start off with rum or vodka, and replace as needed along the way. Remember to make sure its empty for border crossings!

Electronics.
The best bit of the whole lot! First up: Camera. Splash out, get the latest Olympus Tough -the one that is waterproof, shockproof, freeze proof and can be taken to at least 10m underwater. That way, when you’re on the beach, you can take the camera in with you instead of leaving it on the beach to get stolen (I learnt that lesson for you, please listen to it!) It fits in your pocket, takes great pics and videos. Just do it. Next, you want something you can access the internet on – almost everywhere has free wifi, but hardly any places have actual computers anymore. And if they do, they’ll be virus ridden, probably have weird layout keyboards with half the keys not working and you’ll  be limited to 20-3o minutes at a time. When I last travelled, the ipad was just coming out. Having had one for a while now, what a perfect device for travelling! And you can get a small adapter which lets you load photos from your camera onto your ipad (or get an eye-fi card and set it up with your ipad – even better!). Failing the ipad, get an ipod touch or a netbook – something which will let you get online and use skype/google hangouts/facetime for chatting. I’d also advise taking a basic cellphone with a simcard with global roaming enabled. You don’t want to keep it on all the time, but you want it for the day you lose your wallet in the middle of nowhere and suddenly need to get hold of someone to wire you money (or when your bank cards get blocked cause they’re being used overseas for the first time, or its your birthday and you want to hear your family wish you happy happy or or or…). In the past, book exchanges were awesome all over the place, so you’d take one book with you and when done, swap it out for something new. With ebooks around, the book exchanges have rapidly deteriorated, meaning you’ll struggle to get anything vaguely ok. So take a kindle or ebook reader on your ipod touch / tablet and load it up with a whole HEAP of books. You will really appreciate it on your next 28 hour bus ride. Please just make sure at the end of the day that you’re backing up your photos on the web. Use Google’s PicasaWeb or Apples iCloud, pay for extra space if you need it but do it. This is not optional. You will lose at least 1 camera on your trip and assume that it will go walkies with your ipod/ipad/laptop too, but they are replaceable. The photos on them are not – back them up online and be religious about it.

Last Note.
Get a travel folder wallet thingy to keep your tickets, passport(s), itineraries, etc together in one place. Guard it with your life! In your travel document wallet thingy, and in each of your bags, keep a printout of your details and your next of kin details. Once again, one of those things you’ll never want to use, but if something happens to you and you cant speak for yourself, this page will. Make sure you have at least two bank cards – one MasterCard, one Visa. Some countries randomly wont accept one of the other, and if you’ve got the type that isn’t used in the country, you’re stuffed. Take at least a USD 100 in cash (small, clean, unwrinkled/unfolded notes – new is best, as some places wont accept dirty or even the slightest damaged notes) as an emergency fund and don’t use it unless its an emergency (and no, beers aren’t an emergency). I would highly recommend a travel money card – one of those pre-paid debit cards, so that if someone steals the card, the most they can get is what you’ve loaded up onto it. Take a journal and write in it often! You’ll regret it massively if you don’t once you’ve been back from your trip for a while, and will have no-one else to blame but yourself. Instead of sending out heaps of email newsletters every couple of days, think of starting a blog and putting all your adventures on there (then everyone can keep themselves up to speed on their own time). Try learn the basics of the local language where you’re going – at the very least greetings, basic foods & drinks, how to be polite (thank you, please, etc) and numbers. Numbers are incredibly important to ensure you’re not ripped off when trying to buy or pay for stuff. Once you’ve got the basics, you can always read the rest out of a guide book.

And finally, go off and enjoy yourself! I’m sure i’ve missed a heap off this list, but it gives you a place to start. A big backpacking trip is literally a life changing experience. You’ll meet heaps of awesome people, see hundreds of incredible places and come back with stories to last a lifetime!

Gotta love those memory triggers…

The website uses software that was originaly designed for mapping stars in photographs to instead map the specific occurrence of spots around the dorsal fin of the Whale Sharks. Like fingerprints on humans, the layout of the spots on each Whale Shark is a unique identifier and so just by taking photographs, the movement of Whale Sharks over the months and years can be tracked.

Whale Shark H-014

I uploaded a pair of photos from that session and within a couple of days the software on the website had finished processing and the Whale Shark we had seen was identified as H-014 (very original name..). And one of the cool things about this website is that each time another set of photos identifying that specific shark get uploaded, all the previous submitters get an update.

Another View of Whale Shark H-014

And this week, an update came through – the Whale Shark we saw is back for another season and had been seen by another photographer. Quite a cool thing to pop up in your inbox out the blue!

Now just to get ourselves back for another season…

View of the main lodge from the deck outside.

HDR of our unit.

HDR of the view from the deck outside our “front door”.

Hails in the horizon pool checking out our view.

From Kloof it was about a 3.5 hour drive and we were super lucky that my dad lent us his Toyota bakkie (pickup truck or if you’re Australian a “Ute”) so it was a super comfortable drive up there. We were booked into Vlei Lodge, one of the most luxurious of the lodges in Phinda and as you can imagine – every kilometre we got closer our excitement levels went up accordingly.

Youtube video walkthrough of our room. If it doesn’t show up here, you can view it via this link.

When we arrived we handed over the keys to our car (you don’t even stop to unpack your bags or anything) and strolled over to the main lodge with the manager who had cold towels on hand to wipe away the grime from the drive (didn’t need hot towels – it was 31C in the shade!) and a glass of cold ginger ale for each of us. As soon as we had signed the indemnity forms we were welcome to make our way over to our private room. The manager walked us over and our bags had already been ferried over and were waiting in the walk in closet. But before I get side tracked, let me start the description of our accommodation from the beginning.

Dyl, hails and kimmy on an afternoon game drive.

White rhino mother and child.

Sundowners in the bush (from left to right Dyl and Kimmy, Barry our ranger and Thulani our tracker).

Vlei Lodge has only 6 units (so a maximum of 12 guests at a time), with a central main building housing the kitchen and our main dining area (with both indoor seating around a large fireplace for 12 or outdoor seating on the deck under a stand of acacia trees). All of the units are tucked away into the bush apart from each other ensuring maximum privacy, and the all open up onto different parts of the vlei (hence the name), ensuring maximum game viewing from your unit. They are thatch buildings with wood and glass walls, all raised up on wooden decks. Each unit has its own private horizon-flow pool, along with sun loungers and an outdoor sofa and table with chairs. Inside, the units are air-conditioned and have one of the biggest beds you’ll ever see (it uses two 3/4 double beds pushed together with custom bases, mattress quilts and linen to give the impression of one giant bed) – you can stretch across it horizontally and only just touch the edges with arms and legs fully stretched out! There’s a fully kitted up mini bar and a Bose ipod sound dock for your ipod if you want some background music. Off the bedroom is a huge bathroom with modern roll top bath, massive shower with huge picture windows opening up onto the vlei and bush, a toilet, his and hers basins and a large walk in closet. The bathroom also has a big sliding door out onto the deck and pool. Because of the extensive use of glass for walls, it feels like you’re in a luxury pod right in the middle of the bush – absolutely awesome!

Dinner with Hails, Kimmy and Matt.

Geoff the Genet coming the see what we’re having for dinner.

But you don’t go to a game reserve for the accommodation – you go for the game viewing so let me move onto that. At the lodge, guests are split into small groups of 2-3 couples with each group getting their own game ranger/driver and a tracker for the duration of their stay. There’s an early morning drive leaving at around 5:40AM with a coffee break out in the bush at around 8:00AM returning to the lodge around 10:00AM. A full breakfast is then served (continental + hot, pretty much anything you can think of for breakfast is up for grabs from homemade muesli’s and freshly baked bread for toast up to poached eggs with smoked salmon or crispy bacon and sausages – with everything in-between). You then get to have a siesta during the heat of the day, with “high tea” being served from 1:00PM till the afternoon game drive heads off at 4:00PM. As an example of a high tea menu, on our 2nd afternoon it included freshly grilled mozambican prawns with garlic sauce, mini onion beef burgers, mini vegetarian cheese burgers, a cold chick-pea salad, home fried potato and beetroot crisps, a cheese board with selection of spreads and sauces to compliment it, sliced biltong, various fresh seasonal fruit, custard doughnuts, ginger biscuits, lemon cake and then home made lemonade, ice coffee plus all the regular teas and coffees you can think of. Whew, where was I – oh yeah the afternoon drive. You head out at about 4:00PM, with sundowners out in the bush (once again with a full bar and various snacks all laid out on a picnic table with table cloth out in the bush somewhere) at around 6:30PM, then back usually around 8:00PM although can be a bit later if you see cool stuff on your night drive back in the dark. Full 3 course dinner is ready when you get back and after that its bed time for your early start the next morning!

Big male leopard we saw on the 2nd morning.

Big male lion who came to check us out.

Being a private game reserve you do all your game drives in their vehicles with the ranger and the tracker. It means you get to see a whole heap of cool stuff you probably would have missed, can ask a million and one questions about it all and best of all if the terrain allows it you can head off road to get a closer look at the animals. And boy did we get closer looks!

The mother lioness with her 2 cubs.

The definition of cute.

Highlights of our game viewing include being meters away from a mother and child pair of black rhinos, having a large male lion walk past the cars just meters away from where we were sitting (in standard issue roof-less, open sided game viewing vehicles), having a large male leopard walk past within arm’s reach during a night drive and best of all getting right up close to a pride of lions including a large male, 2 large females and 2 curious cubs only a month or two old who came just about right up to the vehicle just before sunset to check us out! Incredible! The park has just about all the animals you get in the area (just no wild dogs – the park isn’t big enough for a viable sized pack of them as they require a huge area for their “turf” and its cruel only introducing one or two of them) and we got to tick off all the big five within 12 hours of arriving! Even more impressive than the animals is if you’re a birder (or twitcher as they like to call themselves) – the park has an incredible variety of birds including some really rare species.

Yip, the leopard just walked right past us where we were partially pulled off the side of the road.

Photo doesn't exist

On our last night the staff prepared our bathroom for us like this while we were at dinner – heaps of tea candles everywhere, a hot bubble bath and an ice bucket with bubbles and glasses for us to enjoy in the tub!

We had an awesome time driving around checking everything out and on both afternoons my cousin managed to join us for the drives which was great. She also managed to join us for dinner both nights, with Matt joining us on the first night too. After all the backpacking hostels we’ve stayed at it was the ultimate luxurious treat. But as with anything that incredible, the time flew past and before we knew it we were heading back to Durban. An amazing two nights there though, and we would like to give a HUUUUUGGGGGEEEEE heap of thanks to Kim and Matt for organising it for us and letting us share their corner of the world for a couple of days. A truly unforgettable experience!

There are quite a few more photos from our trip, you can view them in google plus here or simply in the gallery below.

Hayley, Bryony and Me.

I ended up being buddied with my sister Bryonyand Hayley with another diver in the group. The ride out from the Umkomaas river mouth launch was pretty exciting as a decent size swell was running but once we were past back line it all calmed down. The ride out to the shoal, for those who haven’t dived there before, takes around 20 minutes to half an hour on the semi-inflatable ribs they use (we call them “Rubber Duckies” locally). Once there you kit up and backward roll off, then drift around with the currents over the shoal while the boat follows your surface marker buoy which the dive master tows behind him.

All the happy divers, fresh off the boat.

The visability wasn’t great – my estimate was around 8-12 meters. Water was warm though, mainly at 26C with a couple patches down at 25C and apart from a strong surge whenever a set rolled over our heads, the currents were minimal. In terms of what we saw, lots of the normal fish for Aliwal, lots of nudibranch spottings, a couple of crayfish and heaps of star fish. Hayley saw a turtle once she had surfaced – it came right up to her to check her out but that was probably the highlight of the dive. That said, it was awesome being back on a boat and back in the water. And Hayley got to experience diving in currents and swell – something the Caribbean can’t offer!

Felicity, Miguel, Hayley and Me.

After the dive and an uneventful ride back, we cleaned and rinsed everything then popped next door to the “Hidden Reef” bar for an ice cold draft of beer and lunch. Which turned into a couple more beers for the none drivers and eventually we were dragging ourselves away, only to head back to Kloof to Stokers to pick up where we left off! What an awesome day out – and it looks like we’ll be doing it all over again next weekend if the weather holds.

Bryony and our divemaster Cecil.

Unfortunately we didn’t have an underwater camera with us [update: managed to get a few from one of the other divers on the dive so you'll find one or two underwater ones now], so the pics are all from afterwards on dry land. Click herefor the gallery on picasaweb.

Hails and her pilot, Brad.

Dyl and his pilot, Chris.

We took off heading north, made our way to the coastline just above Sheffield beach and then turned south, drifting along just above backline along the beach all the way to the southern end of Ballito. We turned just before we got to Port Zimbali and made our way back again before coming in to land.

That’s Hails down in her microlight, with typical north coast scenery (ie heaps of sugar cane farms).

The view from my seat, over the pilot’s shoulder.

Neither of us had any idea really what to expect (heck, we even packed a full bag with jeans, closed shoes, wind breaker jackets just to prepare for any eventuality) but it was all chilled and relaxed. We both went up in our baggies and t-shirts, just left behind our loose items like wallets, sunglasses and flip flops. You also get goggles and awesome earphones and a microphone so you can speak with your pilot. And once you’re up, you just float along, taking in all the scenery taking as many photos as you can :-)

Hails soaring like an eagle (well kind of..)

Aerial view of the “Dolphin Coast” – roughly center is Ballito main beach.

The takeoff and landing were both very smooth and quick – the vehicles are light and super manoeuvrable and our pilots were great. There was the odd pocket of turbulence up above the sugar cane fields but it just added to the fun. Unfortunately, when you’re having fun time flies and before we knew it we were back at the air field, safely landed and chattering away like a troop of excited monkeys.

We managed to get a short video of coming in to land in a microlight but its on picasaweb so you need to click that link to watch it.

The rest of the photos are in the gallery below.

We passed through Arniston (which had a nice looking municipal campsite only it lacked any form of shelter from the wind) then carried on through to Wilderness, trying to outrun the weather. As we got camp set up the rain arrived but we had the awning on the landy up and managed to keep dry.

The next morning we mad our way further along the garden route, stopping at Bloukrans to watch several randoms throw themselves off the side of the bridge then on to Storms River Mouth for a couple of days. The suspension bridge there still rocks, the dassies still wake you up at sun rise and the campsite is still incredible. Need I say more? Oh yeah actually – the bad weather finally passed us there and we managed to squeeze in an awesome morning around the pool, topping up our tans and catching up with our books. But nice as it was, we had a great place lined up on our itinerary for our next stop so we didn’t hang around for too long: Addo Elephant Nature Reserve was calling.

So we headed back to one of the campsites we’d spotted (you’d be surprised, but its hard to find campsites in cities..) around the Noordhoek side of town. We had been aiming for one which promised incredible sea views, but when we got round to that side of the mountain the wind was howling and we changed plans at the last minute and headed for Chapmans Peak Caravan Park. It didn’t have the sea views from the campsite, but it did offer respite from the winds. And its a great neck of the woods too – we popped out to Skebangas that first evening for pizza (just as good as I remembered and still served on old floor tiles instead of plates). We’d already done a lot of the touristy things the previous pass through Cape Town (going to sea the penguins at Boulders Beach, hiking down to the lighthouse at Cape Point, watching Southern Right Whales in Kalk Bay) so our plans for the following day were simple – a morning at the waterfront seeing what all the big shops were offering up for this years Xmas swag. We tried to get hold of Hails sister to join us for lunch but couldn’t get hold of her, so once again changed plans and moved over to Forries in Newlands for an ice cold beer in the sun. We ended up chilling there all afternoon – totally amazed at how few Capetonians seem to work on a Friday afternoon – that place was packed to the rafters all afternoon! That evening we went and met up with my mate Syko over in Vredehoek.  It was awesome to check him again and to see that corner of Cape Town – the views from up there at the foot of Table Mountain are incredible and the neighbourhood seemed awesome. We had dinner around the corner from his place, then slowly made our way back over to Noordhoek to our campsite.

The next day we were scheduled to leave, but it was also going to have awesome weather according to the forecasts we had checked out. We had our alarms set and were up early – the perfect weather had arrived and we lost no time getting our camp packed up camp and were heading for the beach by 8AM. I think we got to Clifton 4, one of Cape Town’s absolute gems, around half past eight and got a parking for the landy right down near the beach (once again, for anyone who’s been to Cape Town, to get one of those spots on a perfect weather Saturday is pretty rare haha). It wasn’t even too full yet, although the weather was literally postcard perfect and we knew that wouldn’t last long. We had an awesome morning on the beach, then when the sun reached “incenerate-vampires-on-contact” hotness level, we made our exit (and made some dude super stoked about getting a parking so close to the beach!) and with heavy hearts made our way back onto the freeway and started heading north.

But our destination wasn’t the worst in the world – Hermanus – and our route there definitely helped as we took the coastal road from Gordons Bay instead of popping over Sir Lowries pass. Definitely recommended if you’re heading that way and have the time. All those people who say that road is more scenic than Chapmans Peak are right, and best of all its still toll-free. We had a great afternoon doing a leisurely drive up the coast, nobody was in a hurry and with the sun shining down on us you couldn’t have wanted to be anywhere else that day.

We ended up in a campsite just outside Hermanus, and it was packed to the rafters. We managed to snag one of the last stands, a great little shady spot under ancient milkwood trees. The sea was just meters away on the other side of the trees, so we spent some time exploring the rock pools and looking for hermit crabs and little fish and all that. We even got a decent sundowner in before the weather finally caught up and the wind and rain arrived. We had just jumped into bed though, so fell asleep to the sound of rain drops falling on our tent. It had been an awesome day, if not a little sad that now we had finally turned back towards Durban – towards the end of our African Leg.

My sister Sarah had us round for a super lunch and my cousins Bex and Alex joined us too which was fabulous! We caught up on all the family news and of course, Sarah’s new bling-bling engagement ring! Sarah´s fiance Leith had had a massive night the night before and managed to sleep through the whole day despite the quartet of Shimwell foghorns.

Monday morning and we packed up all our clean washing and drove off into the stunning winelands through Paarl, Wellington and into Tulbagh. What a gorgeous part of the world! We camped on a little farm just outside of town and had 2 glorious days of wine, champagne and cheese tasting plus a tour around an olive farm and a lesson in making olive oil. In town we strolled down Church Street, one of the streets lined with old oak trees and ancient Cape Dutch homes (if I remember right there are 22 listed national monuments down that single street!) while enjoying fudge from the home industries shop. Such a quaint little place. All too soon we were back on the road heading for Cape Town.